The proud owners of one AA Rosette, the County Kitchen at the County Hotel is a much-underestimated restaurant in Chelmsford. A fresh, informal yet elegant dining room greets diners at the hotel’s restaurant, situated on Rainsford Road and open to the public as well as hotel guests. But what is really appealing about the County Kitchen is the impressive local, seasonal gastronomic treats on offer. With a kitchen team of five and a passionate, knowledgeable and influential manager at the helm, the AA rosette gained 18 months ago is well deserved and maintained. Produce is sourced as locally as possible; from cask ale Maldon Gold from Maldon brewery Might Oak available at the bar to seasonal, fresh vegetables from Foxes Farm in Roding, and from line-caught fish from Wivenhoe to rare breed meats from Coggeshall this food is truly local.

Made on site, heart-warming soups, fresh-baked bread and fresh pasta tempt one’s palette when viewing the menu, which changes regularly depending on availability of produce and seasonal ingredients. Owing to the freshness and local nature of the produce used in the kitchen, dishes are prepared elegantly yet without pomp or pretension. For the starter, I opted for rabbit rillette, a wonderfully British dish akin to potted rabbit with dense, toasty sourdough and tangy homemade piccalilli. It was rapidly consumed along with a breadbasket so fresh, the bread was still warm from the oven. The filo parcel starter was a treat made to delight, stuffed with sweet onions, a hint of soft Brie and wintery leek. As well as the colourful presentation and contemporary perspective on a traditional dish, the reminder that the rabbit was from the Essex and Suffolk borders made it all the more delicious.
The choice of main course is incredibly tempting. Hearty dishes prepared with winter staples such as butternut squash, wild mushroom and game bolster classic fayre such as fillet steak or lamb. The line-caught fresh brill and cod came from Wivenhoe that morning and were grilled simply with new potatoes to let the beauty of the ingredients shine through. However, tender wild mushroom and tarragon tortellini with baby courgette was an incredibly fresh option as a main, paddling in a tangy, creamy Gorgonzola sauce. It was colourful and Moorish, and the perfect portion to leave you wanting more of the exciting menu. Also worth some fanfare was the confit of duck with potato rosti- meltingly soft duck and a perfectly cooked rosti complemented by a sweet red cabbage. Classic.

Dessert presents yet more choice for the avid gastronome, with an impressive cheese board available for real connoisseurs. Sourced individually from artisan producers, the list of handcrafted cheese includes Oxford Isis- a soft cheese ripened with honey mead, and Tournegus, a Caerphilly Somerset cheese washed with white wine herb solution and finished with lemon and verbena. Wonderful alongside the Churchill Tawny 10 Year Old port. For the sweet toothed, the layered cinnamon, caramel and coffee semi-freddo should satisfy any craving for grown-up ice cream.

Service was quietly excellent, and the calm dining room created an easy, enjoyable atmosphere. The menu also represented surprisingly excellent value, with our feast priced at £64.90 for three courses and drinks, for two people. The Sunday carvery is a new addition and an ideal opportunity to try the excellent local produce, at £19.95 for three courses. Social events such tea dances and wine and food appreciation evenings are also new ways to get a good idea of what the County Kitchen can produce.

www.countykitchenchelmsford.co.uk